Colorful Chennai

Over the centuries, Chennai, the capital of India's southern state of Tamil Nadu, has grown from a fishing village into the fourth-largest city in India.

The city, also known as Madras, has not, however, lost its multicultural legacy, which ranges from the Pallavas to the Cholas, from the Mughals to the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. Evidence is the range of architectural styles of the many historical buildings that dot the city.

One of the most representative examples of the local heritage is Kapaleeswarar temple, a fine example of Dravidian architecture.

This temple, located in the Mylapore district of Chennai, can be easily reached by taxi or three-wheeler from the city center.

As its name (not so obviously) suggests, the temple is consecrated to Lord Shiva. Kapalam means bowl [made out] of [a] skull and Easwara is another name of Shiva. According to Hindu mythology, at the dissolution of cosmos, all that remains is Lord Easwara holding a bowl of skull, from which the next cosmos will come out.

Kapaleeswarar, whose original structure dates back to the 13th century, was rebuilt by the Vijayanagar kings in the 16th century. Some say it was first built in the 7th century by the Pallava kings, on the site that now hosts Santhome Cathedral. The cathedral, about a mile from the temple, takes its name from the apostle St. Thomas, who is said to have lived and preached in the area in the middle of the 1st century AD.

The temple is painted every seven years in the bright colors of the Hindu tradition. However, according to my guide, the temple was repainted in 2006 (or 2007, he wasn't too sure) only two years after the regular maintenance as the local authorities were not satisfied with the results of the scheduled paint job. Whatever the reason, the temple looked gorgeous in its brilliance.

The most striking feature of this temple is the 37-meter-high gopuram, or pyramid-shaped tower, which is characteristic of Dravidian architecture. The gopuram is carved with intricate designs representing scenes from tales of the Hindu mythology.

Worth a visit to this temple are also the bronze statues of 63 nayanmars, or Shaivite saints that decorate the outer courtyard. The statues are carried in a parade throughout the city on the eighth day of the 10-day Arapattu Moovar festival, held each year between March and April. Another popular festival is Theppam, or float festival, held in late summer in the temple's vast tank.

Kapaleeswarar is a popular pilgrimage site for supposedly being the site of a miracle by Saint Gnanasambandar who sang a hymn to Lord Kapaleeswarar in order to resurrect a dead girl.

On a more cultural note, the temple is famous for being associated to Thiruvalluvar, a 1st century BC Tamil poet-saint who supposedly wrote the Thirukkural, one of the most revered works of Tamil literature. The Thirukkural, or Sacred Couplets, is a collection of aphorisms and moral rules that has had a profound influence on the cultural debate of the region.

Last, a few words of advice. First, like in all Hindu temples, you are not allowed to bring your shoes in. You can leave them either outside the temple (at your own risk) or in the shed to the left of the temple's entrance. A tip when you pick them up is appreciated.

Second: once in the temple you are likely to be approached by a "student" who will start guiding you through the temple. They are pretty good guides so it's worth listening to them. At the end of the tour give 40-50 rupees per each member of the group. If the guide complains, do not waste your time. Just give him the money and say that if he is not happy the alternative is nothing. Never give them what they ask for, even if it seems a small sum.

I was approached by three "students." Only the first one got my attention and my money.



For more photos of the temple and its festivals, click here.